Routes and Maps
Climbing Routes
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Normal Route
When you depart from Plaza de Mulas (4200 m) you go through a perfectly marked path, of frequent transit, first North-East, then East. At the top of a monotonous quarry of small rocks, the path zigzags until it suddenly decreases its inclination. The height is approximately 5150 m. This place is called "cambio de pendiente" or "change of slope". You can see various platforms that condition areas for camping. This is a spot very exposed to winds, but the unevenness from Plaza de Mulas is appropriate for a day of trekking. This is where we usually install camp 1, where there is snow for water provision. Attention: there is danger of landslides that come from the "big haulage".
About 200 m up higher of unevenness, on the "big haulage", a small refuge is elevated called "Antartida", in present time, semi destroyed. This refuge is outside the ideal ascension path. It is not advisable to pass through it. Leaving this "change of slope", you go North-East up to 5350 m of height. In this area there are many large rocks, favoring the assembly of camps. The scenery is beautiful and mysterious, denominated "Nido de Condores" (Condors Nest) and is located the union of Aconcagua - Manso Hill (5350 m). In all this area snow accumulates and it is also frequent to see large plates of ice, scarcely sloped. From "Nido de Cóndores" the path takes a South-East direction and zigzags, following the North-West crest. At around 5800 m you find the group of shelters "Libertad", "Plantamura" and "Berlin", in a very attractive area of a magnificent panoramic view. Of these three shelters, the first two are the only ones authorized for use; the third one is missing the roof and part of its structure.
The shelters must be used as common dining and emergency bivouac areas. In the middle of the summer season, these refuges are mainly used as reference points, since the number of people that accede to these places fill the capacity of these modest and small constructions.
This place is mainly used for camping, but the strong winds frequently produce a marked effect of "venturi", making the stay distressing.
From the refuge area (approximately 5800 m), the path continues in between cliffs of the same North-West edge up to the "Independencia" refuge, at about 6250 m, placed under the "Portezuelo de los Vientos". From this refuge, in a South-West direction, you ascend a small slope towards the "Portezuelo", from which you can perfectly see the rest of the way. Facing the mountain, towards the left, you can place a pyramid and towards the right a clear path extends, barely ascending, and it takes you to the start of "la Canaleta" (the gutter), the last ascension stage.
From "Portezuelo de los Vientos" the path goes right and crosses the "Ventisquero de Schiller" of a width of 50 to 100 m and with a 30 - 35º slope (the snow can be frozen, forcing you to use crampons, for safety) and then "La Canaleta" begins. This is of very unstable and large rocks and has an unevenness of about 400 m. Once you reach the end, cut out against the sky, the main summit is a little towards the left.
"La canaleta" has always been a myth. It has been said that through its extension, you gain very little ground, that you "go up a step and lose two", etc.. The secret to "la Canaleta" resides in ascending on the right side, calmly, and in using ski poles for balance, helping you in not wasting energy. You have to face this stage, knowing the summit is very close.
The descent through this "Canaleta" must be made cautiously, avoiding falling or spraining that can be serious, especially for a debilitated person.
Polish Glacier Route
You go up the stream of the Vacas River and the Relinchos stream (after sleeping two nights, the first one at the Pampa de Leñas refuge at 2700 m and the second one at the Casa de Piedra refuge at 3050 m). The area is filled with streams and you arrive to a base camp the third day, called "Plaza Argentina Superior" at 4100 m. From base camp, you ascend in a West-North-West direction, through severe slopes of transportation, reaching the 4700 m level, once you pass a huge rocky area, where the camp 1 is assembled. Following that direction, you reach the Portezuelo Ameghino at 5300 m, installing camp 2. From the Portezuelo you advance in a South-West direction, ascending through the Northern side of the Western crest, reaching 5800 m, at the start of the Polar Glacier, where camp 3 is installed. Once we reach the glacier, we do not abandon this until we reach a level of 6500 m. Very close to the border of the edge and in an area protected by rocks, we place camp 4, named "Piedra Bandera". To make the summit from this camp, it is convenient a bivouac at 6700 m. The distance between Punta de Vacas to the base camp is of approximately 60 km. Due to the easiness this access brings, many expeditions arrive to the Polish Glacier base, through the Northwest or Normal route, carrying out a path from the installed shelters at 5700 m.
French Route
The southern wall presents, in its almost 3000 mt of height, a spur that was used by a French team on its first ascension in 1954. This spur offers relative safety from the detachment of rocks and avalanches. The Base Camp at 4100 m denominated "Plaza Francia" is placed left where this spur begins, arriving to camp 1, after going through a large slope, but a simple climb, at the base of the "Grandes Torres" at 4900 m. These formations are furrowed with access canals, generally covered in ice, that require an excellent technical rock display, not overcoming difficulties at 4' (+) and offering access to camp 2 at 5800 m at the base of the Inferior Glacier. After passing through a considerable slope of ice, you pass the Superior Glacier "cascade", using an artificial technique on ice, presenting a vertical cut of approximately 50 m. The Superior Glacier presents a comfortable "plain" or "plateau" for installing Camp 3 (6400 m), arriving on the right side to the final and most important part of the superior spur, in which, given the demands of the terrain (5 th grade of difficulty) we install Camp 4 ant 6700 m, from where we reach the summit. The descent is normally carried out through the North side or the Normal Route.
South-West Route
From Plaza de Mulas Vieja (4230 m), after a short horizontal way towards the south, we ascend and in a 6 or 7 hour day, we arrive to the first walls and to the last practicable ascension point, without climbing, where we install Camp 1 at 5500 m. The next day, we advance to the base of the walls, going up and down towards the Southern crest that is at approximately 2 km away. About halfway towards the mountain, there is a large channel that constitutes the key to ascension; this channel allows us to reach the superior part of the edge, avoiding the section between 6000 and 6600 m, that presents many vertical and impracticable conglomerate towers. To arrive to the base of the channel, you must dominate a first rocky step of about 100 m high, that surrounds the mountain. This avoids advancing the way of the crest; arriving to its proximity you find a profound canal you go up until you reach the base of the first vertical tower of the edge, very close to the point marked at 6009 m, from the topography 1/50.000 of the Argentine Military Geographical Institute. From here, you go North, descending 200 m and surrounding a rocky area until you reach the base of the "large canal". On a rock, in form of a roof at 5700 m you find Camp 2, only 200 m above Camp 1 and scarcely turned south, in a the vertical sense of the mountain. The canal is attacked through rocky slope and after a few hundred meters, it slims and forms a slide of snow between two rocky walls, a little bit higher, the terrain widens again. Finally, you arrive to an open slope that ends against a vertical wall that forms a cut on the right but starts losing height towards the left. The route directs diagonally in this last direction. From there at the base of the wall you can find a relatively good place to install Camp 3, at 6400 m. From here you keep on going towards the superior border of the wall, that is like a secondary crest on the West side, until you reach the meeting point with the southern crest (probably at 6707 m, on topography 1/50.000 I.G.M.A.), you continue up the main edge which you do not abandon until you reach the summit. The descent is carried out through the crest that unites both peaks (Cresta del Guanaco) and takes part of the superior northern face, very close to the main summit.
Argentine Route
The approaching route is through Valle de Vacas and Relinchos up to "Plaza Argentina Superior". The East Glacier, placed between the Polish Glacier and the South Wall originates at 6300 m, the maximum slope between 60 and 65 degrees. The inferior sections are not very difficult, starting at 6200 m, where you have to overcome a cut in the rock of 400 m of unevenness. The final part is reached, close to the summit, through the edge of the Polish Glacier. This route was accomplished for the first time in 1978 by the argentines Guillermo Vieyro, Jorge Jasson and Edgardo Porcellana.
Mendocino Route
This new access variant, passing through the Pyramid, was accomplished in January 1982 by Carlos Sansón and Sergio Buglio. You enter through the Valle de Horcones up to the summit of the Pyramid Hill (6000 m), from there and through a close channel at 6100 m you join the original route of the South West Edge that takes you to the Southern peak, the descent is carried out through the Gran Acarreo to Plaza de Mulas.
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