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Aconcagua Polish Traverse

Aconcagua Valle de Vacas

The Vacas Valley offers an emotive alternative to reach the summit. You will endure the demands of a unique moutnain, at the same time you can enjoy the attractive scenery of its virgin areas, of moving and singular beauty.

About the route

The approach is made through the Valle de Vacas ( Vacas Valley ) and then, from Base Camp Plaza Argentina (4200 m) we climb the mountain through the route of the Falso Polacos. After leaving base camp and arriving to camp 2, we climb diagonally and towards the right, from the rocky area (5900 m) at the base of the Polish Glacier. You must cross the bottom, flat part of the glacier to arrive to the camp that marks the northern side of the Aconcagua . After this, you keep going north and join the Normal Route and the Canaleta, from there to the summit. The descent is through the same route, returning to Plaza Argentina .

This is not a route where you will find technical difficulties or glaciers. It shows the same difficulty as the Normal Route . The difference lies in the distance, which is a little bit longer and, therefore, more demanding physically. Technically, there is only one part of hard snow, where you would usually use crampons, a slope of about 30° and of approximately 200 to 300 mts long.

Daily Program

Day 1: Airport reception and transport to the hotel

Our expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina. At your arrival to the international airport or bus station in the City of Mendoza, an INKA Expeditions representative will be waiting for you. After receiving you, we drive you to your Hotel in a private vehicle and after you rest, you meet the Guide that will check your equipment. This is a very important step. Mendoza is the last place available, where you can buy or rent equipment, it is not always easy to find the things you need at the last minute.

Day 2: Transport from Mendoza to the Hotel in Penitentes.

From the city Hotel a van drives the group to the Government Offices to obtain individual entrance and ascent permits. You will be personally assisted in this procedure. After this, you are taken through a picturesque road to the mountain; at noon we stop in Uspallata, a beautiful Andean Valley. After another hour of walking through high mountain roads, we arrive to Villa de Penitentes, where we stay at a Hotel in the mountain. In the afternoon, we get the equipment ready for transportation to the base camp, by mule. Dinner and rest.

Day 3: Approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas.

During this day we start the approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas. After a night in Penitentes, we are transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park. We arrive to Punta de Vacas, where the mule carriers load the equipment on the mules and we walk to the Base Camp, this takes three days. On this day, we trek from 4 to 5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2950 m). This is where we present our permits to the park rangers, we meet up with our equipment and we assemble the dormitory tents. After refreshment, we enjoy dinner.

Day 4: Acclimatization trek from Pampa de Leñas to Casa de Piedras.

In the early morning we prepare our equipment again to be transported by the mules and we have a large breakfast. On this day, we advance towards an intermediate camp, passing through the Quebrada de Vacas, for 6 to 7 hours where you see the Quebrada de Relinchos Stream. This is where we will be able to see the first sight of the Western Face of the Aconcagua. This place is named Casa de Piedras (3240 m) and is where we spend our last approaching night, from Base Camp. Again we assemble the dormitory tents and then we have dinner.

Day 5: Approach from Casa de Piedras to Plaza Argentina (4200 mt)

This is the last day of approaching to Plaza Argentina (4200 m). We start trekking for 5 to 6 hours, going through the margins of the Relincho Stream and ascending the steep slope of the same name, which takes us to Inferior Plaza Argentina. This is where we will be able to see the last native vegetation before climbing towards the glaciers, where Plaza Argentina is placed. At this camp, we meet up with our personal equipment, the INKA Expeditions staff and the modern infrastructure domes that will assure us a comfortable stay; we also start preparing for the ascension.

Day 6: Rest and acclimatization Base Camp.

At Plaza de Argentina we rest and use the day for acclimatization. This is a good opportunity to get to know the Camp, take a shower and explore the area. We get together with the guide, do a medical check up, reorganize and review the equipment, prepare the loads, the fuel and food for transportation for the next day. This is the moment to get to know the climbers from other parts of the world and to meet the people that work at the camps.

Day 7: Equipment carrying to Camp 1 (5000 mt)

We transport in a way to keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to be able to gradually adapt to the height. During the load transportation to the altitude 1 camps, we reach a level of 5000 m. This is a hard day, where we will be walking for 6 hours, ascending on easy terrain. This is when we start enjoying the real beauty of high altitude, ascending more and more, obtaining a spectacular view of the Quebrada de Relinchos and the Horcones Valley. It is very important to control the adaptation of our body to height, and stimulate the evolution of our acclimatization

Day 8:  Ascent to Camp 1 (5000 mt)

We have breakfast and start the ascent from Camp 1. After a 5 to 6 hour walk on easy terrain we arrive to Camp 1 (5000 mt). We meet with the load that we brought the day before. We assemble the camp and then we load division for carrying the following day. We rest and have dinner.

Day 9: Equipment carrying to camp 2 (5500 mt)

We carry food and fuel to camp 2 (5500 mt). This exercise helps us keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to continue with our gradual acclimatization to height. During the load transportation to high camp 2, we reach a level of 5500 mt. This is a hard day, of about 6 hours of walking, where we ascend on easy terrain. Besides this effort, it is very important to control our body adaptation to height and the evolution of our acclimatization.
We return to Camp 1. Have dinner and rest.

Day 10: Rest at Camp 1 (5000 mt)

This is a day we mainly use to recover energy, to rest, to hydrate ourselves and for abundant meals. We must prepare ourselves mentally, for the final stage. We talk with our expedition mates and agree on final plans and strategies with our guides.

Day 11: Ascent to Camp 2 (5500 mt)

We have breakfast and start the ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5500 mt). We meet with the load that we brought two days before. We assemble the camp and then we load division for carrying the following day. We rest and have dinner.

Day 12: Equipment carrying to Camp 3 –Cólera (5900 mt)

We carry food and fuel to camp 3 (5900 mt). This exercise helps us keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to continue with our gradual acclimatization to height. During the load transportation to high camp 3, we reach a level of 5900 mt. This is a hard day, of about 4 hours of walking, where we ascend on easy terrain. Besides this effort, it is very important to control our body adaptation to height and the evolution of our acclimatization.
We return to Camp 2 and rest. We have dinner.

Day 13: Ascent to Camp 3 (5900)

Early morning, after breakfast and after disassembling our tents, we start ascending for around 4 hs. The climb is diagonal and towards the right. We must cross the inferior, flat part of the glacier, to be able to arrive to the northern edge of the Aconcagua. Our camp 3 is placed at the same height as the Berlin refuge (from the Normal Route), strategically situated because it is so close to the Normal Route, for its altitude and cover from winds. From there, you can see unforgettable sights of the highest peaks of the Central Andes. We place our last high altitude camp here. The Guide individually reviews each member of the group and gives his final recommendations. We also plan the final strategies for the last day of ascension to assure success in reaching the summit. We have dinner and rest.

Day 14: Summit day (6962 m)

The day begins at 5:00 am. This is the most demanding day of our expedition. We continue north and join the Normal Route at 6200 m, a point found between the Independence refuge and camp Piedras Blancas. We continue on the Normal Route up to the Independence Refuge (6500 m). This is normally where we see the first sun rays of the day. We ascend the "Portezuelo del Viento" where we can find strong winds, even on calm days. From here on we pass by the superior part of the Western face and climb "La Canaleta", a 300 m channel that takes us to edge of the summit. During an hour, we go through the Filo del Guanaco, that leads us to the summit. From the "Filo del Guanaco" we can directly observe under our feet, the Southern Wall of the Aconcagua, considered one of the largest walls of the world. An indescribable sensation takes of total satisfaction takes over as we reach the summit at 6962 m, where the prize is waiting for us, a 360° view and the experience of overcoming, that you only finally understand once you reach it. After sharing these moments of accomplishment and emotion with our expedition mates, we descend to camp 3.

Day 15: Reserve

We consider these day as spare day in case of bad weather. If we do not use them either we can return earlier to Mendoza City or stay at Plaza Argentina Camp.

Day 16: Plaza Argentina

Return to Base Camp. Special reception and have a dinner for celebration

Day 17: Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Leñas

We have breakfast and start the descent from Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Leñas. After a 7 hs walk we meet with our equipment transport by Inka. We assemble the tents and enjoy our last night at the mountain.

Day 18: Pampa de Leñas - Punta de Vacas - Mendoza

We have breakfast and then start the descent from Pampa de Leñas to Punta de Vacas, approximately for 3 hours. Encounter with our equipment, transported by the INKA Expeditions mules. Transport to the hotel in Mendoza in private vehicles. Certificate hand outs.

Day 19: Airport

Services Included

GUIDES

• We are all professional, experimented and highly qualified guides, with degrees and licenses from organisms that guarantee their special training, graduates from the Provincial School for Mountain and Trekking Guides (EPGAMT), the only school that specializes on the Aconcagua, accredited in the Argentine Association for Mountain Guides (AAGM) and members of the Professional Mountain and Trekking Guides (AGPMT). Some of the guides have licences from the UIGAM.

TRANSPORT

• Transport in a private vehicle from the airport - Hotel in Mendoza. We wait for you at the airport and take you to the hotel.
• Transport to and from Mendoza-Penitentes in a private vehicle. From the hotel we take you to Penitentes, 180 km, through mountainous roads, where you can enjoy the most spectacular view of the Central Andes . You return to your hotel.
• Transport to and from Penitentes-Horcones in a private vehicle. From the hotel in Penitentes to the entrance of Aconcagua Park, to start the trekking.

LODGING

• Two (2) nights of lodging in a 3 *** hotel in the city of Mendoza, double or triple, half pension, beverages not included. We have chosen an excelent hotel, in the city, for lodging at your arrival in Mendoza and for the last night you stay in our Province.
• One (1) night at the Ayelen Hotel in Penitentes, a 3***, Double or triple, half pension, beverages not included. For the past years, this ski center, Penitentes, has been the parting point for most expeditions to the Aconcagua. Before this, we use to go through the Puente del Inca, but we prefer Penitentes because the lodging is better. In Penitentes, you can find from hostels to 3*** hotels. INKA Expeditions works with Ayelen Hotel, which offers single, double and triple rooms with private bathrooms. The welcome dinner, breakfast and taxes are included

MEALS

• All meals are included during the approaching, at Base Camp and high altitude camps. Complete and balanced diet. Meals are prepared daily by the cooks. During last season, 100% of our clients were satisfied with the service offered. You can be sure that you will also be satisfied. Our meals at base camps are very different than the dehydrated meals you might have tested in the mountains. Our diet include, among other things, fresh fruit, meat, chicken, vegetables, fresh eggs, bread and argentine wine. Our meals are energy balanced with the carbohydrates your body requires for this kind of ascent. We are also prepared to elaborate special meals, vegetarian and other kinds.

COMMUNICATIONS

• There is permanent communication, 24 hours a day, through VHF, HF radios, Satellite Telephones, between Base Camps, mountain expeditions, Penitentes and Mendoza. This guarantees safety and organization that will lead your expedition to be a successful one.

MULES

• Mules for equipment transportation (30 kg/person) from Puente del Inca to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp) back and forth. For INKA Expeditions: "responsibility and confidence service" means taking your equipment on time and in perfect conditions to and from Base Camp and back to Penitentes. We own our own tame mules and our carriers are experimented, they know and handle their work with these animals, through family tradition. Each person has the right to transport up to 30 kg. We recommend you take a resistant bag, even though the gear is protected for transportation.

FOOD TENTS

• The kitchen and food tents are completely equipped with tables, chairs, dishes, electricity and heat. They are exclusively designed domes for INKA expeditions, made to provide the highest comfort and quality services. They are attended by a group of mountain service professionals, in charge of preparing meals and of offering an excepcional service, a friendly treatment and always with a smile.
• Our Base Camps also have their own hiperbaric cameras, oxygen equipment, oximeters and first aid kits for an immediate response under any situation.

DORMITORY TENTS

• Dormitory tents and latrines. We provide our clients with the best mountain tents available. The North Face, Marmot and Mountain Hard Wear, equipped with comfortable mats for the base camps.

Not Included

• Aconcagua Park climbing fee (tax charged by Mendoza government)
• Personal equipment.
• Meals in the city, in restaurants or hotels (Mendoza or Penitentes)
• Rescue or other costs due to abandon of expedition.
• Personal expenses (tips, laundry, phone, porters...)
• Extra nights in hotel in case of early return to the city.

Equipment list

1. CLOTHES

• Light underwear.
• Long underwear. Underwear and turtleneck. Polypropylene or capilene, cotton is not recommended.
• Pile lining. Jacket or sweatshirt.
• Trousers with pile lining. Side zippers are recommended to guarantee comfort and ventilation.
• Warm jacket. Down or thinsulate, with a hood, expedition type, it must be comfortable to wear over other clothes.
• Waterproof jacket / transpirable. It must have a hood. Suggested: Gore-Tex
• Waterproof trousers / transpirable. Suggested: Gore-Tex. We recommend side zippers to guarantee comfort and ventilation.

2. HEADGEAR

• Sun hat. Visor and bandana or handkerchief to protect the neck area.
• Balaclava . Suggested: polypropylene or capilene.
• Wool or pile ski hat.
• Head lamp (spare bulbs and batteries).
• Glacier glasses: 100% UV, with side cobres. If you use contact lenses or glasses, we recommend you bring an extra pair. Suggested: Cebe, Julbo, Bolle and Ray Ban.

3. HANDS

• Thin gloves. Two pairs, pile or polypropylene.
• Mittens. One pair, pile, down or wool.
• Gore-Tex overmitts. We recommend shell palms. Suggested: Outdoor Research Expedition Modular Mitts or Wild Country Extremities.

4. FOOTWEAR

• Trekking shoes.
• Mountain boots. Double plastic boots. Suggested: Koflach or Assolo.
• Gaiters. Gore-Tex, Cordura.
• Thick socks. (3 pairs) woolen or synthetic, for cold weather.
• Thin socks. 2 pairs of smooth wool, nylon or polypropylene, to be worn closest to the skin. This reduces blistering.

5. CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

• Ice axe: Light ice axe. The size is important: if you are 1.7 mts, use a 60 cm tool; 1.7 to 1.9 mts, use a 65 cm tool; if you are more than 1.9 mts, use a 70 cm tool.
• Crampons. We recommend 12 point crampons. Not Footfangs or Simond Scorpions or Grivel Rambo.
• Ski poles. One pair of telescopic or collapsible, optional.

6. CAMPING EQUIPMENT

• Backpack: UIT an internal structure of, at least, 70 lts. It must have ice axe haul loops and a place to attach crampons.
• Sleeping Bag: Expedition quality, of at least -18°C (0°F). A good quality down sleeping bag of 1 kg is better.
• Thermal Mats: Neoprene or Therma Rest.
• Plate, cup and silverware: Unbreakable for high altitude camps.
• Pocket Knife: Swiss or Leatherman tool.
• Water Bottle: Two one liter wide mouth water bottles, one liter thermos.
• Sun screen: Sun cream and lip screen SPF 20-40.
• First Aid: Personal First Aid Kit.
• Personal Higiene: pee bottle, wet towels, soap, etc.

FOR THE JOURNEY

• Large duffel bag: Big enough to be able to transport all your equipment. Safety lock.
• Small duffel bag: To store excess equipment at the hotel.
• Plastic bags. For pack clothes and keep dry.
• Clothes for the journey.
• Hygiene bag.
• Photographic equipment. Optional
• Some of these items can be rented at INKA expeditions.

HOW TO PACK

Each bag must not exceed 30 kg. Our mules transport a maximum of 60 kg, so the load must be balanced on each side of the animal.