Aconcagua Normal Route
In the outline of an extraordinary experience, you will stand on the highest spot of the Southern Hemisphere and you can observe the magnificence of The Andes . With a moderate effort and the specialized logistics of INKA, The Normal Route will allow you to obtain this challenge.
The Route
The normal route is technically easy. The hard part is the height; it often gives people headaches and loss of hunger. Besides this, your body has to work with less oxygen than normal. This is why we are so careful with the acclimatization. The approach to Plaza de Mulas is a long distance of about 40 km. We are also used to making acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia, the Base Camp of the Southern Wall. It takes us three days to get to Plaza de Mulas. After that, there are three more camps, before reaching to the summit. Our suggested program is set for two days of double equipment porting and security. When the last stage begins, we go higher and higher until we reach the summit. In the Aconcagua , sometimes the presence of a white wind difficults the ascent, this is why we use the security days, increasing the chances to reach the summit.
Daily Program
Day 1: Reception at the Airport. Transfer to the Hotel in MENDOZA City.
Our expedition starts in Mendoza, Argentina. At your arrival to the airport a representative of INKA Expediciones will be waiting for you. From the airport we drive to a comfortable hotel in the city. After you have rested from flying we will check the gear. Gear check is a critical step. Mendoza is the last chance to buy or rent gear, though it is not always easy to find it at last minute. A group meeting will follow gear check. We will introduce your guides and team members. Dinner will take place immediately after the meeting at "Parrillada" (typical Argentinean restaurant). We will have a chance to taste the famous "asado" (Argentinean barbecue) and delicious wines which Mendoza is so famous for (there are plenty of alternatives for non-drinkers and vegetarians in the group as well). Be prepared for a late dinner since dinnertime in Argentina begins at 9:00 PM!
Accomodation: Hotel double basis –Meals: Not included
Day 2: Land transport from Mendoza to Penitentes Mountain Inn.
From the hotel, our van will take us to a little place near the route, called Penitentes (2.700 mts.). Here we organize mule loads, and spend the night.
Accomodation: Hostel – Meals: B: Breakfast & D: Dinner
Day 3: Transfer from Penitentes to Puente de Inca. Start approaching trekking to Confluencia
After one night in Penitentes, we’ll drive to Puente de Inca, little town situated 6 kilometers far from Penitentes and then to Horcones Lake, where we get our first view of the mountain. We will get our permits checked at the Ranger station. Trekking up to Confluencia at 3500 mts, unload the mules, set up camp, drink some tea or matte (regional infusion served in a gourd and drank with a metal straw) and enjoy the dinner.
Mules depart from Puente de Inca and you’ll have access to your load at Confluencia. So you should carry a daily backpack for the first days. Then the equipment will arrive to Plaza de Mulas.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 4: Acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia (4.200 mt.)
We’ve included this day in order to acclimatize better, and give you more chances to summit. Climbing slowly and returning helps your body to get use to altitude. We’ll trek for about 5 hours until we arrive to Plaza Francia, base camp of the impressive Aconcagua south wall. From this place Aconcagua, the Stone Sentinel, appears more magnificent and intimidating than ever. We can see the entire South face. This is one of the nicest points of the expedition with a breathtaking first view of Aconcagua that you will never forget.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 5: Approaching from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas (Base camp, 4.250 mts.)
We will begin our second approaching day, trekking into Plaza de Mulas, base camp for our expedition. Early morning we start our walk across "Playa Ancha" (meaning wide beach) it is a deserted and always windy valley. We slowly gain altitude up the Horcones Superior Valley. By the end of our day's hike, after 8-9 hours walk and climb up "Cuesta Brava" (meaning rugged slope) a very steep path we reach Plaza de Mulas, our 4.250 mts. Base Camp. This day is important to our acclimatization. By the end of the day, most of us will feel the altitude.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 6: Rest day at Plaza de Mulas. (4.250 mts.)
After our arrival at Plaza de Mulas, we set up camp. We will spend a minimum of 3 nights in Base Camp. The first day in Base Camp is always a rest day and a good occasion to take a bath and explore the local terrain. We will divide expedition loads to carry to the high camps (community gear, fuel and food). We double carry to keep pack weight down and help ensure good acclimatization. Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 7: Carry equipment and food to Camp 1 Canada (5.000 mt.) Return to sleep to Base Camp
This is a challenging day where we gain 1.000 mts with a heavy load, up some easy terrain. Then we’ll return to Base Camp. It’s important to take advantage of the comfort at Base Camp.
Accomodation: Tents-Meals: B,L, & D
Day 8: Carry equipment and food to Camp 2 Nido de Condores (5.400 mt.) Return to sleep to Base Camp
During this day, we’ll continue carrying some equipment and food this time to Camp II, Nido de Cóndores. This way we keep on acclimatizing to the higher altitude.
Accomodation: Tents-Meals: B,L, & D
Day 9: Rest day at Plaza de Mulas. (4.250 mts.)
After two hard days of carrying, we rest and recover energy at Base Camp.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 10: Rest or move from base camp to Camp l at 4.900 mts.
The following morning could be a possible rest day or a definite move to Camp I, called "Plaza Canada", this will depend on how the group is doing, and on the weather. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to acclimatize and make the Summit.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 11: Move to Camp II.
Camp II, called "Nido de Condores" (meaning Condor nest), is located in a high pass at 5.400 mts. and provides spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 12: Carry equipment from Camp 2 to Camp 3. Return to sleep to Camp 3-
On this day we carry equipment to Camp III called Camp Colera (6000mts). After taking the equipment up we return to Camp II to sleep, giving to your body more chances to acclimatize.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 13: Ascent from Camp ll to Camp lll (6.000 mts).
Move to high camp, Camp Ill called “Colera”, located on the North Ridge, offers breathtaking scenes of many of the highest peaks of the Andes.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 14: Summit day. (6.962 mts.)
Summit day begins at 5:00 am. It is the most demanding and serious day of the expedition. We climb the North Ridge to Independencia Refuge at approximately 6.500 mts. normally the sun shines here for the first time that day. The next section is called "El Portezuelo del Viento" (meaning the Door of the Wind), where often there is a strong breeze even on calm days. From there, we will traverse the West Face and climb up into "La Canaleta", a 300 mts. couloirs which leads to the summit ridge. After the Canaleta, the Guanaco Ridge poses an easy traverse to the summit. This last section takes normally up to 1 hour. From the Guanaco Ridge you will be able to look directly down the 3.000 mts South Face of Aconcagua, face of rock, snow, and ice considered one of the greatest in the world!!
On the top we have a spectacular 360º view. Also on the summit you will experience personal feelings and emotions that we can't describe for you. You should live it your self.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Days 15 and 16: Spare days in case of bad weather conditions.
We have three days to summit set aside on our itinerary. Acclimatization, rest and bad weather days. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit. We need a good window of weather to summit. After the climb, we return to high camp, get a well deserved rest, and the next day descend to Base Camp
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 17: Return to base camp.
Return from Camp III to base camp. We’ll enjoy a great dinner to celebrate the climb.
Accomodation: Tents - Meals. B, L: Lunch & D
Day 18: Return from base camp to Penitentes and back to Mendoza
Return hike from base camp to Puente de Inca. Transfer to Penitentes. A van will be waiting for us to drive us to Mendoza, and we’ll have a celebration dinner.
Accomodation: Hotel double basis –Meals: Not included
Day 19: Mendoza.
Breakfast at the hotel. End of services.
NOTE
The proposed itinerary can be changed due to weather conditions o other forced situations that put in risk the group security. The guides have the authority to change the programme according to their criteria. You can be sure the changes have two fundamental objectives. These are to maximize the security and the summit chances. And they are based on our guides knowledge and experience
Services Included
GUIDES
- We are all professional, experimented and highly qualified guides, with degrees and licenses from organisms that guarantee their special training, graduates from the Provincial School for Mountain and Trekking Guides (EPGAMT), the only school that specializes on the Aconcagua, accredited in the Argentine Association for Mountain Guides (AAGM) and members of the Professional Mountain and Trekking Guides (AGPMT). Some of the guides have licences from the UIGAM.
TRANSPORT
- Transport in a private vehicle from the airport - Hotel in Mendoza. We wait for you at the airport and take you to the hotel.
- Transport to and from Mendoza-Penitentes in a private vehicle. From the hotel we take you to Penitentes, 180 km, through mountainous roads, where you can enjoy the most spectacular view of the Central Andes . You return to your hotel.
- Transport to and from Penitentes-Horcones in a private vehicle. From the hotel in Penitentes to the entrance of Aconcagua Park, to start the trekking.
LODGING
- Two (2) nights of lodging in a 3 *** hotel in the city of Mendoza, double or triple, half pension, beverages not included. We have chosen an excelent hotel, in the city, for lodging at your arrival in Mendoza and for the last night you stay in our Province.
- One (1) night at the Ayelen Hotel in Penitentes, a 3***, Double or triple, half pension, beverages not included. For the past years, this ski center, Penitentes, has been the parting point for most expeditions to the Aconcagua. Before this, we use to go through the Puente del Inca, but we prefer Penitentes because the lodging is better. In Penitentes, you can find from hostels to 3*** hotels. INKA Expeditions works with Ayelen Hotel, which offers single, double and triple rooms with private bathrooms. The welcome dinner, breakfast and taxes are included
MEALS
- Cook. All meals are included during the approaching, at Base Camp and high altitude camps. Complete and balanced diet. Meals are prepared daily by the cooks. During last season, 100% of our clients were satisfied with the service offered. You can be sure that you will also be satisfied. Our meals at base camps are very different than the dehydrated meals you might have tested in the mountains. Our diet include, among other things, fresh fruit, meat, chicken, vegetables, fresh eggs, bread and argentine wine. Our meals are energy balanced with the carbohydrates your body requires for this kind of ascent. We are also prepared to elaborate special meals, vegetarian and other kinds.
COMMUNICATIONS
- There is permanent communication, 24 hours a day, through VHF, HF radios, Satellite Telephones, between Base Camps, mountain expeditions, Penitentes and Mendoza. This guarantees safety and organization that will lead your expedition to be a successful one. Besides this, we also offer an e-mail service in Plaza de Mulas at reasonable costs.
MULES
- Mules for equipment transportation (30 kg/person) from Puente del Inca to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp) back and forth. For INKA Expeditions: "responsibility and confidence service" means taking your equipment on time and in perfect conditions to and from Base Camp and back to Penitentes. We own our own tame mules and our carriers are experimented, they know and handle their work with these animals, through family tradition. Each person has the right to transport up to 30 kg. We recommend you take a resistant bag, even though the gear is protected for transportation.
FOOD TENTS
- The kitchen and food tents are completely equipped with tables, chairs, dishes, electricity and heat. They are exclusively designed domes for INKA expeditions, made to provide the highest comfort and quality services. They are attended by a group of mountain service professionals, in charge of preparing meals and of offering an excepcional service, a friendly treatment and always with a smile.
- Our Base Camps also have their own hiperbaric cameras, oxygen equipment, oximeters and first aid kits for an immediate response under any situation.
DORMITORY TENTS
- Dormitory tents and latrines. We provide our clients with the best mountain tents available. The North Face, Marmot and Mountain Hard Wear, equipped with comfortable mats for the base camps.
PORTERS (CARRIERS)
- Carrier for the ascent of tents to high altitude camps 2 and 3 and for descent. The porter is in charge of helping the group with the extra weight the group equipment represents, such as tents, food and fuel. This is to avoid extra unnecessary efforts so you can preserve your energy, for the day you reach the summit. If you need a porter to help you with your personal gear, all you need to do is ask for one.
MISCELLANEOUS
- Assistance in the obtainment of Aconcagua Provincial Park entrance permits. The Aconcagua is a reserved area, managed by the Government of the Province of Mendoza. To be able to enter the park one must obtain a permit, for trekking or for ascending to the summit. By government disposition, this procedure must be done personally in the offices in Mendoza, with your passport or personal document. Our job is to accompany you to the offices to fill in the forms. The permit cost is not included in our services.
- Facility for the deposit and care of equipment. A person in charge of the camp supervises your equipment while you ascend.Personal equipment reviews and advice for rental, if necessary.
Equipment list
1. CLOTHES
- Light underwear.
- Long underwear. Underwear and turtleneck. Polypropylene or capilene, cotton is not recommended.
- Pile lining. Jacket or sweatshirt.
- Trousers with pile lining. Side zippers are recommended to guarantee comfort and ventilation.
- Warm jacket. Down or thinsulate, with a hood, expedition type, it must be comfortable to wear over other clothes.
- Waterproof jacket / transpirable. It must have a hood. Suggested: Gore-Tex
- Waterproof trousers / transpirable. Suggested: Gore-Tex. We recommend side zippers to guarantee comfort and ventilation.
2. HEADGEAR
- Sun hat. Visor and bandana or handkerchief to protect the neck area.
- Balaclava . Suggested: polypropylene or capilene.
- Wool or pile ski hat.
- Head lamp (spare bulbs and batteries).
- Glacier glasses: 100% UV, with side cobres. If you use contact lenses or glasses, we recommend you bring an extra pair. Suggested: Cebe, Julbo, Bolle and Ray Ban.
3. HANDS
- Thin gloves. Two pairs, pile or polypropylene.
- Mittens. One pair, pile, down or wool.
- Gore-Tex overmitts. We recommend shell palms. Suggested: Outdoor Research Expedition Modular Mitts or Wild Country Extremities.
4. FOOTWEAR
- Trekking shoes.
- Mountain boots. Double plastic boots. Suggested: Koflach or Assolo.
- Gaiters. Gore-Tex, Cordura.
- Thick socks. (3 pairs) woolen or synthetic, for cold weather.
- Thin socks. 2 pairs of smooth wool, nylon or polypropylene, to be worn closest to the skin. This reduces blistering.
5. CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
- Ice axe: Light ice axe. The size is important: if you are 1.7 mts, use a 60 cm tool; 1.7 to 1.9 mts, use a 65 cm tool; if you are more than 1.9 mts, use a 70 cm tool.
- Crampons. We recommend 12 point crampons. Not Footfangs or Simond Scorpions or Grivel Rambo.
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• Ski poles. One pair of telescopic or collapsible, optional.
6. CAMPING EQUIPMENT
- Backpack: UIT an internal structure of, at least, 70 lts. It must have ice axe haul loops and a place to attach crampons.
- Sleeping Bag: Expedition quality, of at least -18°C (0°F). A good quality down sleeping bag of 1 kg is better.
- Thermal Mats: Neoprene or Therma Rest.
- Plate, cup and silverware: Unbreakable for high altitude camps.
- Pocket Knife: Swiss or Leatherman tool.
- Water Bottle: Two one liter wide mouth water bottles, one liter thermos.
- Sun screen: Sun cream and lip screen SPF 20-40.
- First Aid: Personal First Aid Kit.
- Personal Higiene: pee bottle, wet towels, soap, etc.
FOR THE JOUERNEY
- Large duffel bag: Big enough to be able to transport all your equipment. Safety lock.
- Small duffel bag: To store excess equipment at the hotel.
- Plastic bags. For pack clothes and keep dry.
- Clothes for the journey.
- Hygiene bag.
- Photographic equipment. Optional
- Some of these items can be rented at INKA expeditions.
HOW TO PACK
Each bag must not exceed 30 kg. Our mules transport a maximum of 60 kg, so the load must be balanced on each side of the animal.
Diseño y desarrollo:
