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Aconcagua Guanacos Traverse

Aconcagua Guanacos Traverse

Daily Program

Day 1: Airport reception and transport to the hotel

Our expedition begins in Mendoza , Argentina . At your arrival to the international airport or bus station in the City of Mendoza , an INKA Expeditions representative will be waiting for you. After receiving you, we drive you to your Hotel in a private vehicle and after you rest, you can meet the Guide that will check your equipment. This is a very important step. Mendoza is the last place available, where you can buy or rent equipment, it is not always easy to find the things you need at the last minute.

Day 2: Transport from Mendozato the Hotel in Penitentes.

From the city Hotel a van drives the group to the Government Offices to obtain individual entrance and ascent permits.You will be personally assisted in this procedure. After this, you are taken through a picturesque road to the mountain. After another hour of walking through high mountain roads, we arrive to Villa de Penitentes, where we stay at a Hotel in the mountain. In the afternoon, we get the equipment ready for transportation to the base camp, by mule. Dinner and rest.

Day 3: Approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas.

Approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas. After a night in Penitentes, we are transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park . We arrive to Punta de Vacas, where the mule carriers load the equipment on the mules and we walk to the Base Camp, this takes three days. On this day, we trek from 4 to 5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2950 m). This is where we present our permits to the park rangers, we meet up with our equipment and we assemble the dormitory tents. After a refreshment, we enjoy dinner.

It is important to stand out how INKA Expeditions is the only company that owns their own service camps here.

Day 4: Acclimatization trek from Pampa de Leñas to Casa de Piedras.

In the early morning we prepare our equipment again to be transported by the ules and we have a large breakfast. On this day, we advance towards an intermediate camp, passing through the Quebrada de Vacas, for 6 to 7 hours where you see the Quebrada del Relincho. This is where we will be able to see the first sight of the Western Face of the Aconcagua . This place is named Casa de Piedras (3240 m) and is where we spend our last approachment night, from Base Camp. Camp preparation and dinner.

Day 5: Approach from Casa de Piedras to Plaza Guanacos.

This is the last day of approaching to Plaza Argentina . We start trekking for 5 to 6 hours, going through the margins of the Vacas River and ascending the Guanacos Valley, which takes us to Plaza Guanacos. This is where we will be able to see the last native vegetation before climbing towards the glaciers, where Plaza Guanacos is placed. At this camp, we meet up with our personal equipment, the INKA Expeditions staff and the modern infrastructure thas will assure us a comfortable stay, we also start preparing for the ascension.

Day 6: Rest and acclimatization Base Camp.

At Plaza Guanacos we rest and use the day for acclimatization. This is a good opportunity to get to know the Camp. We get together with the guide, reorganize and review the equipment, prepare the loads, the fuel and food for transportation for the next day. You'll have the mountain for yourself.

Day 7: Equipment carrying to Camp 1.

We transport in a way to keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to be able to gradually adapt to the height. During the load transportation to the altitude 1 camps, we reach a level of 4300 m. This is a hard day, where we will be walking for 6 hours, ascending on easy terrain. It is very important to control the adaptation of our ourganismo to height, and favor the evolution of our acclimatization. While porting our equipment to Camps 1, 2 and 3 we'll reach 5300m.

Day 8: Ascent to Camp 1

Breakfast. Ascent from Base Camp to Camp 1. 5 to 6 hour walk on easy terrain. Load division for carrying the following day. Rest. Dinner.

Day 9: Equipment carrying to camp 2

We carry food and fuel to camp 2. This exercise helps us keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to continue with our gradual acclimatization to height. During the load transportation to altitude camp 2, we reach a level of 4700 m. Return to Camp 1. Dinner and rest.

Day 10: Ascent to Camp 2

Breakfast. Ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2. 4 hour walk. Tent assembly. Dinner and rest.

Day 11: Equipment carryin to Camp 3

We transport in a way to keep our backpacks as light as possible and fundamentally to be able to gradually adapt to the height. During the load transportation to altitude camp 3, we reach a level of 5300 m. In this stage we`ll enjoy the beauty of the heights, getting even higher expecting to get an espectacular sight of the Valleys and surroundig Mountains. Besides this effort, is is very important to control our organisms adaptation to height and favor the evolution of our acclimatization.

Day 12: Ascent to Camp 3

Early morning, after breakfast and after disassembling our tents, we start ascending for around 4 hs. The climb is diagonal and towards the right until we reach Camp 3 (5300 m). From there, you can see unforgettable sights of the highest peaks of the Central Andes . The Guide individually reviews each member of the grupo.

Day 13: Rest in Camp 3

This is a day we mainly use to recover energy, to rest, to hydrate ourselves and for abundant meals. We must prepare ourselves mentally, for the final stage. We talk with our expedition mates and agree on final plans and strategies with our guides.

Day 14: Camp 4

Ascent from Camp 3 to Camp 4 (5800 mts). The climb is diagonal and towards the right. Our camp 4 is placed at the same height as the Berlin refuge (from the Normal Route), strategically situated because it is so close to the Normal Route, for its altitude and cover from winds. We also plan the final strategies for the last day of ascencion to assure success in reaching the summit. Dinner and rest.

Day 15: Summit Day

The day begins at 5:00 am . This is the most demanding day of our expedition. We continue north and join the Normal Route at 6200 m, a point found between the Independence refuge and camp Piedras Blancas. We continue on the Normal Route up to the Independence Refuge (6500 m). This is normally where we see the first sun rays of the day. We ascend the "Portezuelo del Viento" where we can find strong winds, even on calm days. From here on we pass by the superior part of the Western face and climb "La Canaleta", a 300 m channel that takes us to edge of the summit. During an hour, we go through the Filo del Guanaco, that leads us to the summit. From the "Filo del Guanaco" we can directly observe under our feet, the Southern Wall of the Aconcagua , considered one of the largest walls of the world. An undescribable sensation takes of total satisfaction takes over as we reach the summit at 6962 m, where the prize is waiting for us, a 360° view and the experience of overcoming, that you only finally understand once you reach it. After sharing these moments of accomplishment and emotion with our expedition mates, we descend to camp 4.

Day 16: Descent to Base Camp Plaza de Mulas, through Normal Route

This day we'll descent right to base camp Plaza de Mulas through Normal Route (Aconcagua's west face). This Route and Base Camp are the most crowded places in Aconcagua. Unlike our ascent route, in our descent route we'll find many expeditions from all over the world. Once in Base Camp we'll be able to enjoy Inka Expediciones Full services. A great dinner awaits, also the chance to take a bath, fully equiped camps and exclusive internet service. This cosmopolitan base Camp makes itself the best place to celebrate our succes with champagne.

Day 17: Reserve day in case of unfavorable climatic conditions

This is a day we reserve in case of bad weather. We dispose of one day in our schedule, to guarantee the best chance to reach the summit. We only need a little bit of good weather to be able to make it to the 6962 m.

Day 18: Descent from Base Camp to Penitentes and Mendoza

This day we prepare our personal equipment to descend by mule to Penitentes. A 7 hour walk takes us to Horcones, where we pick up the INKA Expedition vehicles that will take us to Penitentes. This is where we meet with our equipment and take a private vehicle back to Mendoza city. The Guide hands out your respective summit certificate.

Day 19: Mendoza Airport

 

Services Included

GUIDES

• We are all professional, experimented and highly qualified guides, with degrees and licenses from organisms that guarantee their special training, graduates from the Provincial School for Mountain and Trekking Guides (EPGAMT), the only school that specializes on the Aconcagua, accredited in the Argentine Association for Mountain Guides (AAGM) and members of the Professional Mountain and Trekking Guides (AGPMT). Some of the guides have licences from the UIGAM.

TRANSPORT

• Transport in a private vehicle from the airport - Hotel in Mendoza. We wait for you at the airport and take you to the hotel.
• Transport to and from Mendoza-Penitentes in a private vehicle. From the hotel we take you to Penitentes, 180 km, through mountainous roads, where you can enjoy the most spectacular view of the Central Andes . You return to your hotel.
• Transport to and from Penitentes-Horcones in a private vehicle. From the hotel in Penitentes to the entrance of Aconcagua Park, to start the trekking.

LODGING

• Two (2) nights of lodging in a 3 *** hotel in the city of Mendoza, double or triple, half pension, beverages not included. We have chosen an excelent hotel, in the city, for lodging at your arrival in Mendoza and for the last night you stay in our Province.
• One (1) night at the Ayelen Hotel in Penitentes, a 3***, Double or triple, half pension, beverages not included. For the past years, this ski center, Penitentes, has been the parting point for most expeditions to the Aconcagua. Before this, we use to go through the Puente del Inca, but we prefer Penitentes because the lodging is better. In Penitentes, you can find from hostels to 3*** hotels. INKA Expeditions works with Ayelen Hotel, which offers single, double and triple rooms with private bathrooms. The welcome dinner, breakfast and taxes are included

MEALS

• Cook. All meals are included during the approaching, at Base Camp and high altitude camps. Complete and balanced diet. Meals are prepared daily by the cooks. During last season, 100% of our clients were satisfied with the service offered. You can be sure that you will also be satisfied. Our meals at base camps are very different than the dehydrated meals you might have tested in the mountains. Our diet include, among other things, fresh fruit, meat, chicken, vegetables, fresh eggs, bread and argentine wine. Our meals are energy balanced with the carbohydrates your body requires for this kind of ascent. We are also prepared to elaborate special meals, vegetarian and other kinds.

COMMUNICATIONS

• There is permanent communication, 24 hours a day, through VHF, HF radios, Satellite Telephones, between Base Camps, mountain expeditions, Penitentes and Mendoza. This guarantees safety and organization that will lead your expedition to be a successful one. Besides this, we also offer an e-mail service in Plaza de Mulas at reasonable costs.

MULES

• Mules for equipment transportation (30 kg/person) from Puente del Inca to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp) back and forth. For INKA Expeditions: "responsibility and confidence service" means taking your equipment on time and in perfect conditions to and from Base Camp and back to Penitentes. We own our own tame mules and our carriers are experimented, they know and handle their work with these animals, through family tradition. Each person has the right to transport up to 30 kg. We recommend you take a resistant bag, even though the gear is protected for transportation.

FOOD TENTS

• The kitchen and food tents are completely equipped with tables, chairs, dishes, electricity and heat. They are exclusively designed domes for INKA expeditions, made to provide the highest comfort and quality services. They are attended by a group of mountain service professionals, in charge of preparing meals and of offering an excepcional service, a friendly treatment and always with a smile.
• Our Base Camps also have their own hiperbaric cameras, oxygen equipment, oximeters and first aid kits for an immediate response under any situation.

DORMITORY TENTS

• Dormitory tents and latrines. We provide our clients with the best mountain tents available. The North Face, Marmot and Mountain Hard Wear, equipped with comfortable mats for the base camps.

MISCELLANEOUS

• Assistance in the obtainment of Aconcagua Provincial Park entrance permits. The Aconcagua is a reserved area, managed by the Government of the Province of Mendoza. To be able to enter the park one must obtain a permit, for trekking or for ascending to the summit. By government disposition, this procedure must be done personally in the offices in Mendoza, with your passport or personal document. Our job is to accompany you to the offices to fill in the forms. The permit cost is not included in our services.
• Facility for the deposit and care of equipment. A person in charge of the camp supervises your equipment while you ascend.Personal equipment reviews and advice for rental, if necessary.

Equipment list

1. CLOTHES

• Light underwear.
• Long underwear. Underwear and turtleneck. Polypropylene or capilene, cotton is not recommended.
• Pile lining. Jacket or sweatshirt.
• Trousers with pile lining. Side zippers are recommended to guarantee comfort and ventilation.
• Warm jacket. Down or thinsulate, with a hood, expedition type, it must be comfortable to wear over other clothes.
• Waterproof jacket / transpirable. It must have a hood. Suggested: Gore-Tex
• Waterproof trousers / transpirable. Suggested: Gore-Tex. We recommend side zippers to guarantee comfort and ventilation.

2. HEADGEAR

• Sun hat. Visor and bandana or handkerchief to protect the neck area.
• Balaclava . Suggested: polypropylene or capilene.
• Wool or pile ski hat.
• Head lamp (spare bulbs and batteries).
• Glacier glasses: 100% UV, with side cobres. If you use contact lenses or glasses, we recommend you bring an extra pair. Suggested: Cebe, Julbo, Bolle and Ray Ban.

3. HANDS

• Thin gloves. Two pairs, pile or polypropylene.
• Mittens. One pair, pile, down or wool.
• Gore-Tex overmitts. We recommend shell palms. Suggested: Outdoor Research Expedition Modular Mitts or Wild Country Extremities.

4. FOOTWEAR

• Trekking shoes.
• Mountain boots. Double plastic boots. Suggested: Koflach or Assolo.
• Gaiters. Gore-Tex, Cordura.
• Thick socks. (3 pairs) woolen or synthetic, for cold weather.
• Thin socks. 2 pairs of smooth wool, nylon or polypropylene, to be worn closest to the skin. This reduces blistering.

5. CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

• Ice axe: Light ice axe. The size is important: if you are 1.7 mts, use a 60 cm tool; 1.7 to 1.9 mts, use a 65 cm tool; if you are more than 1.9 mts, use a 70 cm tool.
• Crampons. We recommend 12 point crampons. Not Footfangs or Simond Scorpions or Grivel Rambo.

• •  Ski poles. One pair of telescopic or collapsible, optional.

6. CAMPING EQUIPMENT

• Backpack: UIT an internal structure of, at least, 70 lts. It must have ice axe haul loops and a place to attach crampons.
• Sleeping Bag: Expedition quality, of at least -18°C (0°F). A good quality down sleeping bag of 1 kg is better.
• Thermal Mats: Neoprene or Therma Rest.
• Plate, cup and silverware: Unbreakable for high altitude camps.
• Pocket Knife: Swiss or Leatherman tool.
• Water Bottle: Two one liter wide mouth water bottles, one liter thermos.
• Sun screen: Sun cream and lip screen SPF 20-40.
• First Aid: Personal First Aid Kit.
• Personal Higiene: pee bottle, wet towels, soap, etc.

FOR THE JOURNEY

• Large duffel bag: Big enough to be able to transport all your equipment. Safety lock.
• Small duffel bag: To store excess equipment at the hotel.
• Plastic bags. For pack clothes and keep dry.
• Clothes for the journey.
• Hygiene bag.
• Photographic equipment. Optional
• Some of these items can be rented at INKA expeditions.

HOW TO PACK

Each bag must not exceed 30 kg. Our mules transport a maximum of 60 kg, so the load must be balanced on each side of the animal.